Camels Parking

This is one of those scenes you might imagine in a movie or perhaps dream about. After crossing 12 kilometers of desert with our camel caravan, we arrived at Oasis de La Gueila, which at first glance seemed deserted. A vast palm grove carefully irrigated by the locals stretched out before us. As we approached, there appeared to be no one around. Then we found a watering trough where camels were literally parked, sipping water and resting while their owners chatted casually, as if it were just a routine pit stop.

Guardian of Tichit

He suddenly appeared out of nowhere. We were drawn to the main courtyard and the mosque, so perfectly preserved and clean they seemed newly built. The man approached us, he was the guardian, and shared how, in Tichit, many of the buildings had been reconstructed using the exact techniques of the city’s original builders. We stood under the scorching sun, and as he unfolded the history of this enchanting place, we slipped into the shade behind a wall, where the temperature dropped just a few degrees. I still remember the gentle breeze that drifted through that quiet alley.

Friends Among the Dunes

Everywhere in the village, the youngsters, more curious than ever, began chasing us, almost like they had gone wild. They followed us wherever we went, seeking some kind of exchange, interaction, or simply a chat. The older ones, less shy, introduced themselves and we talked. They stood out beautifully against the backdrop of the dunes surrounding the village. They were happy to have some photos taken of them, and when we showed the pictures, they appreciated them and smiled.

Akreijit Boy

Standing in Akreijit’s vast background, one of the boys showed his pride, standing tall and beaming with confidence and joy, a small but powerful presence in the desert landscape.

Akreijit  Kid

Akreijit in the background, its cliffs rising on the far left, one of the kids who had followed us all across the desert and up the mountain.

The Guardian of Ksar el Barka

Navigating us around the walls of Ksar el Barka, Abdallahi embodied the spirit and memory of this ancient fortified village. In the sand, his shadow stretches far larger than his figure, a quiet reminder that his legacy, like the stories of those who built and protected these walls, looms larger than any one person. His presence is a living link to the past, preserving history for generations to come.

The Baguette Seller at the Nouakchott Port

Delivering fresh baguettes along the beach in Nouakchott, the seller walks slowly, shouting as he carries them balanced high above his head. His call echoes softly over the waves, inviting passersby to taste the warm, crusty bread amid the salty sea breeze.

The Roaming Nomad

Stopping by the fuel station in the vast desert, the camel led by his chamelier fed on the sparse bushes, a quiet moment of survival in the harsh landscape.

Underneath the Thorn Tree

Cooling in the shade of the lone thorn tree, with Guelb el Richat in the backdrop, we paused for a quiet lunch, a moment of calm amid the vast desert sands.

Desert Mountains

Amidst the endless sands, rocky formations rise, breaking the monotony of the desert and standing as silent witnesses to time and the harsh landscape around them.

The Look

Riding slowly on his donkey-drawn cart, a man stopped to talk with us, eyes full of curiosity, sharing a quiet moment in the Amatlich, this lovely remote village built on a rocky terrain.

Curtains of Palms

Reaching through the broad palm fronds, our guide in worn sandals peered into the shaded hollow beyond. Perhaps he was searching for dates, or perhaps for something we will never know. It was a quiet, enigmatic moment before we continued deeper into the canyon toward the Guelta of Matmata, home to dozens of Nile crocodiles.

Vallée Blanche

Yielding to the vast sands of Vallée Blanche, a towering rocky formation revealed its grandeur as Chikali parked the car behind the rocks, hiding the view. He led us up, and suddenly the full magnificence of the valley opened before our eyes, an unforgettable desert panorama.

Dripping water

At the trickling waters of Terjit oasis, a man leans forward to watch the stream fall gently onto the sandy floor, a rare and precious reminder that water is life in the vast desert.

Road to Fort Saganne

Looking high above the valley, a man observe out the path to Fort Saganne, the small fort built for the 1984 film of the same name directed by Alain Corneau. Its walls rise from the desert sands, a striking reminder of how cinema can leave a mark even in the vast, timeless Sahara.

Ancient Studies

Learning from the spirit of Chinguetti, Chikali carries books and documents like a devoted student, embodying the desert’s ancient legacy of scholarship.

The Camel Caravan

Pacing steadily across the sands, our two chameliers smile as they lead our camel caravan, carrying supplies from Chinguetti toward the Oasis de La Gueila.

Bending with the Camels

En route across the desert, we let the camels recharge at a lone bush, their long necks reaching for its sparse leaves. Beside them, the chamelier bends forward, his posture echoing theirs, as if man and animal were shaped by the same rhythm.

Entering Terjit Oasis

Out of the barren desert, Terjit appears nestled within a narrow canyon, a hidden sanctuary where life gathers against all odds. Palms rise along the stream that flows from the rock, casting shade over the water that seeps and drips from the canyon walls. For centuries, caravans, pilgrims, and wanderers have found rest here, stepping from scorching sands into a world of cool shade, murmuring water, and timeless tranquility.

Break at the Big Tree

Pushing forward across the desert sands, our caravan follows the lead of the two chameliers straight toward a massive tree. Its broad shade promises respite from the scorching sun, a place to set up lunch and rest before continuing the journey toward the Oasis de La Gueila.

Climbing the Dune

Led by two guides, our camel caravan, was facing the final, towering dune before the Oasis de La Gueila would appear like a mirage, after thirteen kilometers of walking from Chinguetti. The climb was heavy, the silence profound, and the air charged with anticipation, leaving only one question: what lies beyond this crest?

Setting Up Camp at the Oasis de La Gueila

Evening fell as our guides were busy setting up camp and preparing dinner in the traditional way. This moment captures one of them arranging the cooking supplies with the vast dunes in the background, just as we returned to the camp.

Night Desert Fire

Setting up camp just after completing a 13-kilometer desert crossing, we rested behind a big tree. Our porters silently lit a fire, and I vividly remember the profound silence of that moment. This fire became the heart of our evening, used to bake bread and cook dinner under a star-filled sky. Stripped of all comforts, we were left with nothing but the earth, the sand, the fire, and the air, fully present in that peaceful silence that spoke volumes.

Desert Railways

Venturing after five years of exploring the desert and embarking on two unforgettable train-hopping adventures on the Sahara railway in Mauritania, I finally witnessed the only passenger train crossing the desert, stationed at Ben Amera, a unique railway services village. This moment was particularly special because the previous journeys on this railway had been some of the most adventurous and thrilling experiences of my life, the first time lasting 21 hours, the second time 12 hours. Standing on the ground with the railway men, rather than atop the wagons, offered a completely different perspective.

Palms at the Horizon

On his way back to the desert. He came to greet us and then he left towards the sand storm.

Dusty Salt Flat

In the vast white expanse of the Jraif salt pan, our travel companions stood amidst a sudden whirlwind of salt, the air thick with shimmering particles. As the wind whipped around us, visibility vanished and the world dissolved into a haze of white and silence. In that fleeting moment, time seemed suspended, a reminder of how the desert’s raw elements can transform reality into something otherworldly.

Break Between Dunes

Crossing deep into the Erg d’Aderg, we followed Chikali on foot as he drove the car through towering dunes. We paused for a brief moment to catch our breath and shake the sand from our shoes, surrounded by the immensity of the desert.

Follow Me Through History

Enveloped by the ancient walls of Ouadane, we felt as if we were being carried through time. Walking between weathered stone streets, once alive with the passage of caravans, there was a sense of crossing a threshold, guided gently between past and present.

The Guardian of Ouadane

Serving as the guardian of Ouadane, Mohamed El Hassan Ould Barakallah watches over the ruins of one of Mauritania’s most remarkable Saharan towns. Founded as a staging post along the trans-Saharan trade routes, Ouadane prospered through the transport of gold, salt from the Idjil mines, and other goods across the desert. Today, the old town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, lies mostly in ruins, with crumbling mud-brick walls and narrow alleyways that hint at its past importance. Mohamed’s presence preserves both the physical remnants and the memory of centuries of caravan trade, keeping alive the stories, spirit, and resilience of this desert settlement.

Camel Market

Under the scorching sun of Nouakchott, the camel market comes alive. Nouakchott Camel Market, the second-largest camel market in Africa after Sudan. Every day, hundreds of dromedary camels, symbols of Mauritania and the Sahel, are brought here to be sold, bought, or traded. The market is not just a commercial hub but a vibrant cultural crossroads where nomadic traditions, trade practices, and social interactions intertwine.

Bella Ciao My Dear Nomad

Never before had I felt such a profound sense of solitude as when this elderly man appeared out of nowhere at the remote fort of El Ghallaouiya. Not far from the fort a well still provides water for animals and travelers crossing the desert. It was early morning, and he approached us quietly, sharing fragments of a life marked by weeks without seeing another soul, encountering only passing wanderers. When he asked for something to ease his pain, we gave him some medicine, and in that moment of silent connection, I played a song with my mouth, a melody of resistance and resilience, trying to connect with him beyond the language barriers.

Street Butcher

In the heart of the bustling streets, the butcher’s stall stands ready, meat displayed and knives in hand.

Give Us Water

Elegant, the two camels wait patiently as the man lifts water from the well, ready to pour it into the watering trough. Their quiet attention seems almost as if they are asking him for a drink.

Nomadic Picnic

Drifting into the shade of a massive tree, a group of shepherds and their cows pause for lunch, resting briefly from the relentless sun as the desert stretches endlessly around them.

The Well Master

From the dunes, the chamelier descends, gathering his camels at the well and letting them drink deeply of the precious water.

Camel Photobombing

Ops, my turn for the photo.

Snack in the Emptiness

Relishing a rare moment of pause, Shikali steps out of the car in the vast area of Assabet El Meddahla, surrounded by the endless expanse of desert. With a mouth full of snacks, he savors the simple pleasure amid the emptiness, the flat sands stretching to the horizon behind him. The scene captures both the humor and humanity of our journey through this remote region, where every small moment of life stands out against the stark, unbroken landscape.

Relaxing at Sunset

At sunset, two men lie stretched on the sands, preparing for the annual Sbua pilgrimage to the zawiya of Sidi El Hadj Belkacem in Gourara. Every year, pilgrims gather from Zenata communities in the southwestern Algerian Sahara to honor their saints with song, dance, and ritual procession. On the seventh day, the journey culminates in a square outside the zawiya for one final gathering, where tradition, faith, and community converge.

Sbua Celebration

Faith and tradition unite the Zenata Berbers of Algeria’s remote Gourara region during the Sbua pilgrimage. Each year, communities gather at sacred sites, including the tombs of local saints, to honor ancestral customs. Prayers, ritual ceremonies, and the rhythmic sounds of traditional music resonate across the desert, blending spirituality with cultural heritage. Beyond its religious significance, Sbua is a vibrant social event: families reunite, stories and legends are shared, and markets come alive with trade and conversation. For the Zenata people, the pilgrimage is a living link between past and present, preserving communal identity and the enduring spirit of the Sahara’s desert communities.

Native Desert Scene

Rooted in everyday life yet resembling a painted tableau, the scene unfolds with a young man in a white turban crossing the frame as another tends to a donkey-drawn cart behind him. The moment feels almost surreal, recalling the timeless imagery of Fattori’s brushstrokes.

We Are So Small

Endless space, endless sand. Chikali walks away from the camera, gradually becoming tiny against the endless dunes and open skies. The vastness of the desert swallows him, a quiet reminder of how small we are in the face of such immensity. In this moment, we too feel part of the landscape, humbled and absorbed by the unbroken expanse around us.

Observing the Seam

Eyes. Observing Eyes.
Lemin was taking the tent to a local tailor’s stall in the market of Ayoun. In the narrow, shadowed alleys, light and darkness weave across the space, and from nowhere the curious eyes of a child appear, quietly watching. Whether the child is drawn to the tailor at work or to the unfolding moment before the camera remains a mystery.

Desert Market

People move through the narrow alleys of the Ayoun market, sheltered by canvases stretched high to create shade. Spread around a single block of buildings, these shaded passages form a labyrinth where shadows and light create an aura of mystery and timeless rhythm.

Desert Land Rover Postcard

At the border between Tiris Zemmour and the Adrar in Mauritania, a nomad works on the rusting carcass of an old Land Rover in one of the most remote parts of the desert. The vehicle, once an essential means of transport, now stands still, almost like a treasured relic. He seemed to have been trying for months to repair it, putting all his determination into it. The scene feels like a vintage postcard, capturing the spirit of an adventurer, and no doubt the nomad himself has countless stories to tell.

Silent Pain

Lingering in the shadows of a vast, traditional Mauritanian tent, this man embodies a silent suffering that pervades the most remote desert communities. With no access to healthcare, many elders endure chronic pain in silence, their ailments often left untreated. I remember this man telling us about the persistent shoulder pain he had endured for weeks, unsure of its cause. In these far-flung villages, the hope is that we, as outsiders, might offer some relief or insight. This moment powerfully captures that quiet, enduring pain.

Turning Left

Even in a single frozen frame, the streets of Kiffa seem calm, yet the reality is a constant swirl of chaos. Cars rattle over sandy roads, twisting and turning to find their way like mismatched pieces of a puzzle, while people in flowing drâa move steadily through the confusion. In the stillness of the image, the disorder softens into balance, capturing a fleeting illusion of order in the heart of the desert town.

The Lost Sneiga Forts

Standing at the crossroads between the Adrar and Tiris Zemmour regions, we explore the mysterious French-era forts of Sneiga, near El Beyed, where history seems to have vanished into the sands. Despite numerous attempts, no written records have surfaced about these structures, leaving them shrouded in intrigue. Only the foundations and perimeter walls remain, with scattered French legion buttons hinting at the fort’s past. The French presence in the desert primarily confronted the local nomadic populations, especially the Moor tribes (known as the Bidhan or “whites”), as well as some Berber and Saharan communities. France sought to establish control over caravan routes, oases, and strategic areas of the Sahara, essential for trade and connecting its West African colonies. The main groups that resisted were the nomadic Moor tribes of northern and central Mauritania, who opposed both French occupation and taxation. The guardian recounts how this strategic pass, linking the sandy desert with rocky outcrops and the valley of El Beyed, was once a site of clashes between nomads and French soldiers, leaving behind a legacy of silent stories and resilient communities.

The Shadow of Modernity

Through the dusty road of Zouerat, an elder wrapped in a flowing Mauritanian draa moves with quiet dignity, a testament to a bygone era. Yet, casting a giant shadow over him is the silhouette of a massive antenna, symbolizing the encroaching modernity. This juxtaposition highlights the delicate balance between tradition and progress, as the old guard walks steadfastly into an ever-changing world.

Three Generations of Chameliers

In the dunes north to Jraif, we stumbled upon a desert shelter, almost like a mountain refuge, where we met three generations of camel herders. An elder, a middle-aged man, and a 21-year-old who had already triumphed in camel racing competitions. Despite the wealth embodied by their nearly eighty camels roaming the desert, they chose to preserve their nomadic traditions rather than move to the city. It was a rare and meaningful encounter, made possible by Chikali, who opened the doors to their world and left us with the warmth of their farewell.

Desert Boxer

No Fight.

Mother Teresa of the Sahara

Eyes wide with surprise, a passerby emerges wrapped in the folds of a white turban, his figure evoking the calm, caring presence of Mother Teresa.

Walk at the Market

Market calling.

Ben Amera

Ascent days.
On February 18, 2025, we arrived at the base of this immense mountain. The following day, we climbed the monolith of Ben Amera, a massive granite rock formation rising 560 meters above sea level and the tallest monolith in the Sahara. Located in northern Mauritania near the border with Western Sahara, Ben Amera is a geological wonder shaped over millions of years of erosion, standing as one of the most impressive inselbergs in the world. This natural colossus, composed of ancient Precambrian granite, holds both cultural and historical significance, with the surrounding area dotted with prehistoric petroglyphs and remnants of past civilizations.

Desert Villa

Yet another quiet moment in the desert, Lemin leans against the fence of a small, charming house, so neat and cared for it looks like a tiny desert villa.

The Waiting for

In the heart of the desert, where ancient traditions meet the pulse of modernity, three young souls stand at the crossroads of time. As they wait along the freshly laid asphalt, the vast emptiness around them seems to echo a timeless anticipation. In this moment of stillness, the old world meets the new, leaving us to ponder what future lies ahead. What are they waiting for, in a place where time seems both endless and fleeting?

Smile through the Sand Storm

Turning her head, she looks back at me, smiling through the swirling sand. Wrapped in her veiled clothes, she moves with the ease of someone at home in the storm, a fleeting goddess of the desert.

Drying at the Oasis

Standing in front of the majestic palm trees a man, wearing a turban, carefully placed a piece of cloth into a large basket.. As we arrived in Nema, on the far eastern edge of Mauritania, near the Mali border, we stumbled upon a striking scene. A group of men were tending to their laundry, spreading out vibrant fabrics on the ground to dry in the intense sun. This open-air laundry spot, a communal hub, perfectly captured a moment of daily life in this remote oasis.

What is a Camera?

Rays of sunlight highlighted her face, wrapped in a black veil. As we stopped to ask for directions while crossing the southern Adrar toward Ksar el Barka, I asked to take her photo, captivated by the play of shadows and light. Only her eyes were visible, narrowing slightly, perhaps in a smile, perhaps in surprise, or simply trying to understand the strange device in my hands.

Auker Traverse

Exhausted after three days lost in the desert, we finally came across a chamelier and his companion leading a long caravan across the vast sands of the Auker in Mauritania, considered deadly even for locals. As our 4×4 traced the same path, we were approaching our final destination, Tichit.

Desert Pride

Stopping on our way to Walata, we sought guidance and more information about the route. In this vast, arid expanse, men tended their livestock, and from a distance, one man approached us with remarkable pride and elegance. He walked straight toward us to offer his help, his gaze fixed on us with an air of dignity and importance.

A Breath of Relief

Invited into a tiny pastoral village, we journeyed through the remote, scorching eastern sands of Mauritania near the Mali border. In the midst of the intense heat, the village chief graciously invited us into his small storage room, a cozy refuge filled with sacks of flour, animal feed, and salt. As we settled in the shade, he reached for his chrout, a traditional goatskin tobacco holder with three pockets: one for the tobacco, one for his hand-crafted pipe made from animal bone (the smaller the animal, the better), and one for the small nail used to clean the pipe after smoking. Sometimes, copper decorations add a subtle elegance. Carefully loading his pipe, he lit it, and the atmosphere shifted to one of calm and camaraderie. The men, taking a break from their daily toil, gathered around us, and through our guide, we shared stories and sipped tea together. It was a moment of genuine connection, a brief respite from the harsh sun, and a reminder of the warmth and traditions of the desert’s people.

He Who Walks with the Desert Herd

Sculpted by the desert, we met this shepherd shortly before arriving in Walatah. His piercing eyes, enhanced by the large turban wrapped around his face, revealed the quiet strength of a life spent close to the land. His clothing, worn by years of labor, seemed both humble and perfectly suited to his world.

Doors of Walata

Through the quiet hallway of Walata, a woman sits in front of her elaborately decorated house door, her eyes curious yet shy as they meet ours.

Walking Through the Past

Among the ruins of Walata, two women walk through the remnants of a once-thriving city.

Daily Life in the Courtyards of Walata

Next to each other, two children play in a quiet Walata courtyard, their small figures framed by the intricate decorations of the house doors in the foreground. The doors of Walata are famed for their geometric patterns, carved symbols, and vibrant colors, a centuries-old tradition reflecting both artistry and the pride of welcoming visitors. In this scene, the children’s lively presence brings the courtyard to life, while the beautifully adorned doors tell a story of cultural heritage and timeless craftsmanship.

Sailing Off from the Desert

Traditionally, the Sahara meets the sea in a unique blend of cultures, and in this coastal stretch of Mauritania, the desert’s people also embrace the sea. This handmade wooden pirogue, with its sails unfurled, glides through the protected waters of Banc d’Arguin, symbolizing the delicate balance between land and sea. Unfortunately, this age-old fishing practice is fading due to industrial overfishing, making this image a poignant reminder of a disappearing tradition.

Marching Out of the Dust

Sand storm, marching out of the dust. New Roads for New Cars.

My Sheep

Proud of his flock

A Matter of Glances

In the quiet vastness of the desert, a man and a camel converge at a lone water trough, each arriving from a different path. Their eyes meet, an unspoken understanding, fleeting yet profound. For a heartbeat, necessity becomes poetry: two wandering lives drawn together by the fragile gift of water. Around them, the endless sands stretch like a silent witness, amplifying the charm and intimacy of this ephemeral encounter.

Simple Life, Simple Men

Resting on the sand near their patched-up tent, two old men enjoy the last light of the day in one of the remotest corners of the Sahara of Mauritania I have visited. Their faces, touched by the sun, tell the story of a hard life shaped by sacrifice.

Stay Focus

In the midst of their camels, cows, and goats gathered at the watering trough, three shepherds take a moment to rest. Yet one remains focused, watchful over the animals and the land around them.

Scratch My Neck Please

Thank you for scratching my neck, I truly needed it.

Photo Memory

Suddenly, in the middle of their daily routine, the shepherds came together for a family portrait. Old and new generations stood side by side, captured in a single frame that reflects the simple beauty of life in the Sahara. For some, it was the first time seeing themselves photographed, and when shown the pictures, they laughed and giggled with the joy of discovery.

With Pride Beneath His Palm Trees

Loyal to the desert that shaped his life, this man welcomed us with warmth in a remote outpost near Walata, where only a handful of small houses stood in the midst of an unforgivingly arid land. It was mid-afternoon, the heat still heavy, when he invited us for tea, proud to host us as his guests. After some time together, he insisted on showing us what he valued most: the few palm trees he had managed to cultivate. In a land where water is almost nonexistent, their survival was not just remarkable but the result of tireless effort and care. Standing before them, with an imposing gaze full of dignity, he embodied the resilience of those who wrest life from the desert, creating green where nothing is meant to grow.

Entering Ghadames

In the footsteps of centuries of travelers, this man steps through the grand archway of Ghadames, one of Libya’s most iconic caravan cities. Known as the “‘”Pearl of the Desert”, Ghadames is a living museum of ancient architecture and culture. As he passes through the arched corridor, the echoes of history seem to whisper around him, bridging the past and the present.

Walata Market

Butcher shop at the Walata market, the last one open till late that day.

No Control Over Sand and Wind

Engulfed by the desert, a man faces the rising wind and swirling sand as he tries to make his way through the town. Dunes have drifted between the buildings, reshaping the streets, and the desert asserts its presence with unstoppable force. In this scene, human effort meets the raw power of nature, a stark reminder of how small and fragile we are against the relentless elements.

Lonely in a Sand Sea

Realising the immensity of a sea of sand made, he felt a profound sense of loneliness, awed by its power and strength.

He Spotted Something

A young boy sitting on a wall in Walata has spotted something.

Guardian of the Ancient Library of Walata

Treasured within the ancient city of Walata, the Al Taleb Boubacar family has preserved for decades a remarkable library safeguarding around 800 manuscripts. These volumes, part of a wider Mauritanian legacy of over 30,000 manuscripts dating from the 18th and 19th centuries, though with examples reaching back to the 12th, represent an extraordinary cultural inheritance. They include works of Islamic law, mystical and literary texts, dictionaries, grammars, biographies, and treatises on history and science.

Walata itself, founded in the 13th century under the Ghana Empire, once flourished as a major stop along trans-Saharan caravan routes. Its strategic position made it a hub of trade and scholarship, rivaling Timbuktu until the late 16th century. Manuscripts held immense value, sometimes equal to the price of a camel, and Qur’anic schools attracted students from across the Sahara, North Africa, and the great Sudanese empires. The city’s wealth of libraries and scholars, along with its distinctive red-ochre architecture decorated with geometric motifs, gave it lasting renown.

Today, desertification and depopulation threaten this fragile legacy, with many manuscripts at risk of disappearing. The Al Taleb Boubacar family’s efforts remain a vital act of resilience, preserving Walata’s intellectual memory.

Innocent Smile

Eternally unforgettable was this moment while crossing the Auker, one of the most remote, desolate, and isolated areas of the Mauritanian desert, where even locals consider it harsh and dangerous with no shelter, no water, no life. We encountered a chamelier, astonished to see a vehicle among the dunes. We asked him for guidance on the route. Lemin invited him to ride with us, helping us follow the right direction for a few kilometers. We momentarily took him away from his camels and pasture, traveling together until we stopped to continue alone. The two men spoke, clarified the route, and we left the chamelier bewildered in the middle of the desert, perhaps smiling at us before we resumed our journey. For the rest of the trip, we wondered if he ever found his way back to his camels.

Magdit Hike

A hike among the pinnacles of Magdit, where towering formations scattered across the desert floor are the result of millions of years of erosion and sedimentation.

Desert Meat

Lighting a fire directly on the sand, Ali wields freshly cut goat meat, preparing dinner the traditional way. Smoke rises into the desert air as he works, a quiet ritual rooted in desert life.

On the Roofs of Ghadames

Layered in sunbaked clay, the rooftops of Ghadames stretch across the old city like a patchwork of terraces. Narrow alleys wind between them, and the flat roofs serve as both passageways and gathering spaces, offering glimpses of daily life above the streets. Light and shadow dance across the ochre surfaces, revealing the intricate architecture that has allowed this desert oasis to thrive for centuries.

Sunrise Chai at Ben Amera

The desert awoke slowly in the early hours, before the day’s climb, Dah brewed chai on the sands beside the majestic Benamera monolith. Our team, accompanied by Mauritania’s only two climbers, set out to scale the monolith, experiencing every step of the ascent. The peaceful morning quickly gave way to fierce gusts, emphasizing the dramatic shift in the desert’s mood and the resilience needed to face it.

Chercheurs d’Or

Hard at work in the remote stretches of the Sahara near the Tenoumer Crater, a resilient man labors tirelessly under the scorching sun alongside his team. I first visited in 2022, when only a few hunters braved this harsh landscape. By 2025, the site had transformed, with hundreds flocking here in search of fortune. The image captures not only their perseverance against the vast, challenging desert but also the harsh realities of life in such an unforgiving environment. Life here follows a relentless cycle of hope and hardship. While some provisions are brought to them, the miners spend months isolated from the nearest village. The dream of striking it rich often fades as they travel to the nearest town, Zouerat, to spend their earnings on essentials or small luxuries, before returning to the desert to start over. This ongoing cycle underscores both their resilience and the immense challenge posed by living and surviving in one of the world’s most remote places.

Special Moments

Engaging with the semi-nomadic women of Ziri, Lemin shares a quiet moment of connection amid their daily life in this remote desert region.

The Desert Museum’s Guardian

Overlooking El Beyedh is the Desert Museum, where Yslim, its guardian, has devoted his life to preserving traces of ancient civilizations. His small hut, built from dry branches, is relentlessly swept by the desert wind, sand creeping into every corner. At the tiny wooden door, Yslim, an elegant elderly man in a pale blue tunic, welcomes visitors into a space that seems, at first glance, no more than a modest storage shed. Inside, our eyes slowly adjust to the dim light, revealing a remarkable scene: thousands of prehistoric artifacts carefully arranged on the floor and along the walls. Enormous hand axes, arrow and spear points, mortars, and grinding stones, many dating back to the Neolithic, testify to human ingenuity across millennia. Each piece has been meticulously collected and cataloged by Yslim, a lifetime devoted to rescuing these treasures from the sands.

As a boy, he once accompanied an elderly traveler, Théodore Monod, one of the greatest Saharan scholars and explorers of the twentieth century. Monod wandered across Mauritania in search of a legendary meteorite, and during those days, Yslim showed him the unusual stones emerging from the sands around El Beyedh. “The professor told me to start collecting and preserving them,” Yslim recalls, “and that one day people from far away would come to study and see them.” Today, Monod is long gone, but Yslim continues the work he was entrusted with, preserving history in a humble desert hut, keeping the past alive amidst the whispering sands.

Whispers of Lost Images

Perfectly hidden in the remote sands near Ksar El Barka lie some caves. Abdallahi, the guardian, and his companion guided us on a scorching day to discover little-known rock paintings, mysterious traces of a past nearly lost to time. The experience was magical. In quiet admiration, Abdallahi’s friend settled inside the cave, seeking refuge from the heat while gazing at the ancient art below. Meanwhile, Abdallahi shared the stories and meanings behind these enigmatic paintings, offering a rare window into the lives and expressions of people who lived here centuries ago.

Picnic at the Ubari Lakes

Picnic time. We arrived at Umm Al Maa Lake, a true wonder of nature, an incredible oasis nestled among the dunes of Ubari in Libya. It was time for chai. In the quiet of the gentle desert breeze, we stayed there, simply taking in and contemplating the serene beauty of the place.

Trueareg

Remaining among the last of the desert nomads, this Tuareg man lived as his ancestors always had. Mbarak Lawi was one of the Bedouin inhabitants of Tadrart, in the Akakus Mountains of Libya. While organizing this collection, Mbarak passed away, and with him, a page of historical memory and an important figure of the Libyan desert was lost.

Urbanization and the shift toward towns have made many nomadic tribes of western Libya disappear, and modernization often erodes traditions and customs. We encountered him and his family in hand-built huts at the edge of the Akakus Mountains, in the Wadi Tashwinat, witnessing a rare and enduring glimpse of a culture that continues to thrive in the most remote corners of the desert.

Old Rover Mechanic

Eagerly catching my gaze in the heart of the desert, this semi-nomadic man seems to observe and understand me, as if he were taking the photograph himself. In quiet intensity, he watches, preserving something of me while I honour him through my lens.

Seif, the Guardian of Heritage

Seif is the guardian of one of the historic libraries in Cinghetti, one of the most fascinating caravan cities in the Mauritanian Sahara. The libraries of Mauritania preserve not only the country’s history and cultural heritage, but also centuries of scientific, spiritual, and philosophical knowledge. Seif is a theatrical yet elegant storyteller, speaking with passion about the vital role Cinghetti once played along the trans-Saharan trade routes. His devotion to preserving these ancient manuscripts is both moving and admirable. Encountering him, time after time, is always a moment of joy and deep enrichment.

Desert Hunter

Sands Hunter, Ali sets out in search of meat to serve a splendid dinner.

Exploring Magdit

Exploring the western border with Algeria, we reached the mysterious Magadet, a part of the desert filled with pinnacles and rock columns rising like a stone labyrinth. That day, we ventured into its heart, accompanied by our security man who insisted on staying close. We tested him under the scorching sun, yet he too was captivated by the magical beauty of the Magadet.

The Oral Tradition

Drawing on decades of experience, Abdallahi, guardian of Ksar el Barka, shares the history and wisdom of this land. Amid the ruins of Ajoueir, perched above the valley and wadi, stories and oral traditions pass from one generation to the next, shaping the future guardian of this remote place.